„Summer 2020, what a great time “… said no traveler ever?! No, summer 2020 wasn’t the most generous to us. All that COVID19 stuff, bans, restrictions, adapting to temporary changes or super high temperatures. It took some of our freedom away, some of the things we took for granted. Perhaps we got to know the real value of all the possibilities we have a bit better. We got to take a closer look at what our parents always talked about. I was annoyed by all the close-downs as you probably were too. The borders were no longer opened, travels had to be put aside and many plans were canceled. However just when everything got a bit better, I slipped away, crossed the borders and went on a trip I had been postponing for a while.
Please be over soon
The „first wave“ in my home country was slowly coming to an end, we didn’t have to wear masks in the streets anymore, only in stores or public transport. Some of the borders were being opened. So, as you have probably guessed I took my chances and just a week after this great news came out, I went abroad. Just to our neighbors (since they were one of the first to open) to climb some ferratas I happened to be obsessed with over that summer. This article is not about that though…
Just when I came back, I got a message from my favorite Spaniard. She said: „Hey, my parents are going to the shore in a month, would you like to come over and stay with me?“ This girl is my international sister (from another mister), we spent a year in America together, and I haven’t seen her for 4 long years. How could I possibly turn down an offer like that? The borders were opened, I wanted to go, there were no questions. So, I got my tickets, packed some stuff, grabbed a few masks and there I went, heading to a country which’s language I’ve been struggling with for a few years.
MADRID
The great enemy is back
The first thing you notice once you arrive in Madrid – HOT. It was about 30°C most of the days in my hometown. But in Madrid, it reached 38°C every single day. The sun was a killer, but it always is to me. I’m not a fan of hot weather, but somehow, I always handle it. This time, there wasn’t even an ocean breeze (how could there be, when there is no ocean?). The ACs in stores were quite helpful as much as narrow streets with tall buildings and parks full of trees. But those 30s were hard to handle, and the mask over my mouth didn’t make it any better, So I came up with a plan – I went out early in the morning, around 7a.m., explore the city till 3p.m. and stayed in my hostel room with an AC on until the temperature outside was bearable again. That usually wasn’t before 8p.m. though. It took a lot of time out of my day, which was quite disappointing. However, it turned out not being such a problem after all.
And what now?
I felt pretty down when I realized that I will spend 5 hours every day locked in a room while being in such a beautiful city. I had my map flagged with many places I was excited to see. So, I woke up every morning more than ready to get out and explore. Madrid is such a magical place. It’s full of old buildings, statues, puertas, parks, plazas and even street art. Plus at that time, when most of the people were still scared to travel and the locals were already working, the streets were so easy to walk. No packed tourist spots, no queues at the entrances, empty benches to sit and chill on. I was just happy to walk the whole city. YES, I WALKED THE WHOLE CITY CENTER. That wasn’t the problem at all. But I WALKED THE WHOLE CITY CENTER IN 3 DAYS. And it wasn’t even 3 full days. I do walk quite fast, but I still stopped and enjoyed every sight I wanted to see. I didn’t run, I wasn’t just passing by. I didn’t take the metro and I even had my headphones off most of the time. How the hell could I see more than 20 spots in 3 half days?
Where to spend your time
The city of Madrid is meant to be walked slowly. No rush, enjoy the streets you walk through, peak into little vintage stores you’re passing by. This city is full of great places that are definitely worth seeing. Sure, there is the statue of El Oso y el Madroño, Plaza Mayor, El Rastro or Puerta de Alcalá, but there is so much more to this beautiful city! So, let me point out at least a few of the places that found a way to my heart.
- El Retiro – Probably my favorite place in the whole Madrid. It is a huge park that you can wander through for hours. You’ll see many locals as well as tourists doing all sorts of activities from running, over yoga, chilling, having picnic, working out, reading to walking their dogs or dancing with fans. It has a huge lake with a historic monument reminding me of Rome. But what I loved the most there, was Palacio de Cristal and La Rosaleda.
- Palacio de Cristal is a huge glasshouse that was filled with enormous fake flowers when I was there. I think that it was a part of some exhibition, so I cannot guarantee that it will be the same once you come. But there was a small pond right behind it, with many ducks and pigeons surrounded by bushes, which was right form a fairy tale.
- La Rosaleda is a rose garden located in the south part of Retiro. It was built by a king who loved roses and wanted to grow some from as many different countries as he could. It’s just a cute mazy garden full of roses of all colors.
- Barrio de las Lettras – An authentic neighborhood with streets that give you a feel of history, tall houses, antique stores, boutiques, tapas bars and book stores. Many famous writers were inspired or even lived in this part of Madrid. As you walk through, you will pass by some pavings with quotes by artists such as Miguel Cervantes or Lope de Vega. You will also most definitely end up at the Plaza Santa Ana with a sculpture of Fredrico Garcia Lorca freeing a bird.
- Lavapiés – A vibrant, artsy district full of life, museums and street art. I did visit a couple of museums throughout my trip, because I do love art. I went to, and can recommend, Museo Reina Sofía and Caixa Forum in which both I paid the entrance of about 6 euros (they do have student discounts) and later, I found out about two smaller ones – La Casa Encendida and La Tabacalera, which both were really nice, had great exhibitions and free entrance. I did not go to Prado since I’m more into contemporary art and part of this famous museum was still closed due to corona.
- Templo de Debod – An ancient Egyptian temple given to Madrid for helping to save other temples back in time. Watching this sight, I didn’t really feel like I’m in Madrid, however it is really nice and interesting monument to see.
- Parque Juan Carlos I – If you happen to be further on the east side of Madrid, make sure to visit this lovely park. It is a place where a lot of people meet, hang out, have a picnic or do some sports mainly in the evening hours. There are several monuments, lake with turtles and many olive trees. It is such an amazing place to relax and live up with the locals for a while
If you’re into architecture and buildings, check out Palacio de Cibeles, Palacio Real, or Catedral se Santa María la Real de la Almudena.
The reunion
I know that you may not be as interested in this part, but it was an important one for me. And so I have to write a few lines about it. I was really excited and incredibly happy to see my international sister after 4 years again. And once I spotted her, everything felt like the old times. I didn’t have that feeling of „OMG this is amazing we have to get the most out of every single minute we spend together “. It felt more like nothing really changed, like we never left each other and like everything is just right. We had a really great time walking through the city, messing around or having a picnic where she introduced me to her lovely friends. I really liked to hang out with them and I could even practice my Spanish with them a bit. We watched movies, took the Teleférico over the Casa de Campo, cooked, ate a lot of fruit, I tried Tortilla de patatas for the first time, and everything felt just great! I’m so thankful for her, and for the opportunity to stay at her place, that was given to me by her family. It was really helpful since the Couchsurfing was down due to COVID and hostels in Madrid are not the cheapest. Thank you for the great time and for showing me, that no matter how far apart we are, nothing between us really changes.
Toledo
Since I walked Madrid in 3 days, I decided to spend another 3 days in Toledo. What is Toledo? It is a historical city full of medieval monuments just about an hour from Madrid… Well, it’s a castle. I felt like I’m spending 3 days in a freakin castle. What a dream! I couldn’t pick a better place to spend those few days at. Stepping out of the bus, climbing that hill, I came into another world. I walked through a bricky gate, dragged my luggage up a stony staircase. I was just ready to meet the knights riding horses through the streets where car could barely fit, or perhaps meet the king. To my disappointment, there was none, but the architecture was incredible! Bunch of places were still closed due to the pandemic but let me write down a few spots you shouldn’t miss.
- Puente de Alcántara – Bridge with a tower and a gate that gives you an outstanding view on the whole „castle“ part of Toledo. It just feels like the main entrance to me.
- Paseo de La Vega – small park just behind the gate with many benches and trees. Perfect if you want to get out of the city to read, chill or hang out but you don’t feel like going far.
- Circo Romano – An acient romain circus build in the 1st century. I would say it’s more of a ruin. Bunch of gates next to each other located in a park nearby.
Architecturewise I would recommend Puerte de Bisagra, Zocodover, Plaza del Ayuntamiento or Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes.
There are also a few museums if you feel like digging more into history of this armor making city or just cooling down from the sun.
I stayed in an Oasis hostel, which is located right in the center and I can definitely recommend it. The stuff was really nice and helpful, nice clean rooms and I couldn’t ask for better roommate (she’s not included in the hostel though). Yes, I met this wonderful and super fun girl who I talked to and laughed with till 3 a.m. as well as one really nice guy at a local restaurant who I got to hang out with for a while.
Conclusion and Recommendations
So maybe I do not need Couchsurfing to meet great people afterall. My international sisters’ friends (her and her dog, him and his basketball skills at 1 am), taco guy with a great story to share or this Toledo roomie, who looked for a banana at 3 am.
People, talk to strangers! It’ s such an amazing and fun thing to do!
If you are planning a trip to Madrid, I recommend to plan up 3-5 days. Unless you really want to go into every single building you see, you won’t have places to explore no more. But do have to admit that I could be in Retiro every single day without getting tired of it. Also, if you go, pick some not so hot month. Because over the summer, even the locals are leaving to the coast.
And last but not least,
TRAVEL! Anywhere and anytime. Get out and experience something new.
That’s all I got to say 🙂
Where I have been 